Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
